anyone?Was wondering if anyones got any info on this issue?
Could be a couple of things but.....Lets start with the easiest fix first.You may have a bad DP sensor at the front of the valve bank. It's the round sensor usually gold colored and is visible on the valvebank right behind the swing transmision.You may also have a bad angle sensor on the pumps, be sure to check the condition of the plug ends and the wirring itself.Your angle sensors may be acting up but it's not as common as the other pieces that I've mentioned.You may also have a problem in the PVC or cab harness which can be checked by pulling off the rear dash assy. and with the machine running check that the red lights on the engine controller and the pump valve controller are comunicating with each other.(the lights will be flashing back oposite of each other)This is just a start but first I would try and swap the angle sensor wire plugs and see if that changes anything.Odds are though that it's the DP sensor on the valve bank causing you this problem.Good luck and let us know, you can also try me at the shop at 604 856 8281 if you get to frustrated.
You may also have a problem in the PVC or cab harness which can be checked by pulling off the rear dash assy. and with the machine running check that the red lights on the engine controller and the pump valve controller are comunicating with each other.(the lights will be flashing back oposite of each other)The LED's don't always flash in unison even with the usual 1 second on 1 second off. Check your fuses first. Make sure they are the right amperage. If the lower computer (PVC) flashes but not 1 second off 1 second on (normal no codes). Then count the flashes. A long one is 10 a short one is 1. Example fault code 22 which you may have will be 2 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes. There may be more than one code active and the process will repeat itself.
That all is if you have an EX200-2 or -3. EX200-5? forget what I said.
Its a ex200 lc-sI check all that thanks
I think maybe where you think its as 's' it is actually a '5' so its a dash 5. Is it a late 90's machine?I have a full set of manuals for an EX270-5 most of which also cover the 200-5 if you want some particular info. It has a trouble shooting guide but mostly relies on you having the dr.ex or dr.zx scan tool.I have seen a knock off hitachi scan tool on ebay that might be worth investigating... I have been thinking about it myself.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dr-ZX-Hitachi-Excavator-V2009A-DR-ZX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5fcb6459QQitemZ250715268185QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools
What's the serial number? I'm thinking if it is an EX200-5 with wiring to the top of the pump then it is a grey market machine, serial number beginning with 14HP? The grey market 200-5s were quite different than the US version. Much more electronics, different wiring harness, computor ect. They printed a seperate manual for this machine which is no longer available. But they can all be fixed, just need to know what model you actually have.
Its reads ex200lc-5. S/n:147-70967
An EX200 with a 147 serial prefix is a Dash 2 machine. Now that we know that, go up to KenAl and Flemings post and start there.
Had the same problem on our 200-3 a few years ago. On start up the engine was under load, wouldnt rev but when you activated the thumb cylinder it would free up until it got to the end of the throw and then it would die. Had 3 mechanics look at it. Mech one from the dealer "bring it to the shop and about twelve grand we can fix it". Mech 2 "Its the pump", Mech 3" I dont know Hitachis but it's not the pump". Replaced pump, worked for 1 day and then went chit house again. The wire harness coming out of the cab was the problem. The insulation in places had cracked and alowed oil to short out a couple circuits. Cleaned the harness and tightend up the control hydraulic lines been trouble free for 4 years. Hope this helps
Hi Kid,Hope you sorted out the problem. But we recently sold a Hitachi EX200-3 and it had almost the same issue. As soon as the machgine worked for about 20min the engine would die. Traced the problem to a bad DP sensor. We got a second hand sensor for this and its been working ok ever since the replacement. I actually got one sent from China and still waiting for delivery, but will let you know if the Chinese sensors are any good. It was only USD280!Hope this helps!Imran
kneelo said:I have seen a knock off hitachi scan tool on ebay that might be worth investigating... I have been thinking about it myself.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dr-ZX-Hitachi-Excavator-V2009A-DR-ZX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5fcb6459QQitemZ250715268185QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fToolsClick to expand...Has any one actually used one of these scan tools? The reason I ask is a friend of mine has a 100-2 that loads the engine until it almost dies when trying to do much of anything at all, he has a scan tool referenced above and for the life of me I can not get it to communicate with the machine. I have experience with communications of this sort but am at a loss on this one.
Texas Dwight said:Has any one actually used one of these scan tools? The reason I ask is a friend of mine has a 100-2 that loads the engine until it almost dies when trying to do much of anything at all, he has a scan tool referenced above and for the life of me I can not get it to communicate with the machine. I have experience with communications of this sort but am at a loss on this one.Click to expand...also got this same diagnostic tools and it is not working on my dash 2 machines.
Hi, it seems that you know quite a bit about EX200-3 we are experiencing slow hydraulic responses and cannot figure out why this is happening. We dont have any access to scan tools etc....we are based in roxas city, capiz can you help us or at leats point us in the right direction? Thanks
storm1n said:Hi, it seems that you know quite a bit about EX200-3 we are experiencing slow hydraulic responses and cannot figure out why this is happening. We dont have any access to scan tools etc....we are based in roxas city, capiz can you help us or at leats point us in the right direction? ThanksClick to expand...call me at 09173232700
Dr zx is not a knock off, it's the newer version of dr ex
I have a dr zx I'm getting rid of with cables for all ex models, also have zx cables to if needed
the computer on My ex200-2 went out, or some of the computer went out, I have voltage at the pump but Deere said it would cost 10k to fix it so we just bypassed the computer, it burns more fuel but is still working....
What!? PM me I'll help you with that
DBarron said:What!? PM me I'll help you with thatClick to expand...here's what mine didhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZIzNI-MhZA
Hitachi two solenoid control voltagewhat is the Hitachi ex200 lc two maine high speed solenoid one mode control voltage
danushka said:what is the Hitachi ex200 lc two maine high speed solenoid one mode control voltageClick to expand...if you are referring to the voltage on the 2 solenoids on top of the pump, that wire puts 24v on it, I found the problem in the harness and that wire is not needed anymore
i try to 2 or 3 month manual controll but i cant do thishow to manual controll this ex 200 plss help
danushka said:i try to 2 or 3 month manual controll but i cant do thishow to manual controll this ex 200 plss helpClick to expand...put spacers in the pump on the floating piston and play with it until it will run and do ok, it will burn more fuel but at least it will run
i try it some spacer work quick but cant get load and engine stopwhat is the spacer size
plss tell mewhat is the spacer thiknessif you by pass floating piston oil line or block the oil line ?is there pump merge vale how it's controls?your machine and my machine is samei show the you tube video now machine working good?fuel is not problem
danushka said:plss tell mewhat is the spacer thiknessif you by pass floating piston oil line or block the oil line ?is there pump merge vale how it's controls?your machine and my machine is samei show the you tube video now machine working good?fuel is not problemClick to expand...i think we ended up with about 2.5 inches of spacer, you gotta just play with it because every machine is different. you will get to a point where it will have power and be reasonably quick
any chang in electronics controll vale boxany Chang in electronics control vale box is there pump merge valve
2 little jumper wires to the pump and you can get it to stay spooled down while you run or move it
me too
I have a hydraulic problem with the main boom on a 2005 John Deere 160 excavator. Have tried relief settings, checked pilot pressure, pumps appear to be putting out on other functions, but boom will not lower or raise with any power.
i also got that problem, thanks for your post,you just gave me idea. hope it's good.
i'm not familiar what DP sensor is, would you let me know were i can locate that DP sensor? color? appearance?
do you know what DP sensor is? and were can i locate it?
scan toolDBarron said:I have a dr zx I'm getting rid of with cables for all ex models, also have zx cables to if neededClick to expand...do you still have this scan tool, thanks todd 413 687 1098
i have new one for sale.my email is[email protected]
hi do you still have this scan tool and if so can you call me at 413 687 1098 thank you todd
sheldon64 said:I have a hydraulic problem with the main boom on a 2005 John Deere 160 excavator. Have tried relief settings, checked pilot pressure, pumps appear to be putting out on other functions, but boom will not lower or raise with any power.Click to expand...try checkin the proportional solenoid ( in the pilot system on the solenoid valve manifold) for the boom function, there is one for each function. You can check by ohm testing it and comparing the reading with the others. If the spool under the solenoid coil is getting stuck that could cause the prob as well.
Same problem with our ex200-3 DP sensor fixed it after all kinds of headache.
also got the DP sensor for the hitachi ex200-3 from China which is still working fine, got a new throttle box for our CAT 320 from the same place which is giving us issues tho, the auto idle doesn't kick back up the way it should, have to turn the knob instead, it's extremely aggravating.
guess it's hit and miss with those guys.
wsw said:2 little jumper wires to the pump and you can get it to stay spooled down while you run or move itClick to expand...Where do these wires need to be run to
jhgoiregf
hi i have a similar problem with my ex 200-3 hope someone can help me with this, the engine stalls when boom,arm and bucket functions are operated(but when cylinder bottoms at end when relief valve blows the engine does not overload and stall) but tracks and swing system is ok!i have checked and replaced both the controllers(pvc and throttle) also replaced the dp sensor,angle sensor,and both solenoids on pump!but the problem is still there im wondering now is it hydraulic or electrical?
Mine does similar but it only pulls engine down some when you pull lever just a bit then frees up when you pull more ,just in that spot close to neutral that loads it up, like you said only on Bucket ,Boom, Arm .Hope somone will come to our rescue.
yup hope someone comes to the rescue! with your problem have you checked the pilot pump pressure it should read 40 bar at idle and same at full rpm? that might be an issue im guessing!what model is yours?
There are 3 parts to check with this problem.Angle sensorRpm sensorHigh speed solenoidStalling means your pump swash is at full angle.You need dr. zx to easily detect this problem.
naheed said:hi i have a similar problem with my ex 200-3 hope someone can help me with this, the engine stalls when boom,arm and bucket functions are operated(but when cylinder bottoms at end when relief valve blows the engine does not overload and stall) but tracks and swing system is ok!i have checked and replaced both the controllers(pvc and throttle) also replaced the dp sensor,angle sensor,and both solenoids on pump!but the problem is still there im wondering now is it hydraulic or electrical?Click to expand...Changing the parts without proper configuration settings will not solved the problem.You need to set the angle sensor properly.
thanks guys i will check that out ,rgl do you still have parts?
shopguy said:thanks guys i will check that out ,rgl do you still have parts?Click to expand...yes i have.
have you ever heard of one loading up at min. stroke
thanks for the help rgl 726! more info on configuration would great.ive tried all possible settings with the angle sensor but not helping with the stalling! checked the high speed solenoids they both working how can i check the speed sensor? i bought all parts from china would that be an issue with the stalling?much appreciated with your help
dr zx is the best way to detect if this sensor are working. you can also configure the angle sensor thru dr. zx.
unfortunately im in kenya and cant find anyone here with dr ex to help me. anyway ive played around with the angle sensor and dp sensor(old and new) but not solving the problem with engine stalling! put in a new pressure sensor and rpm sensor but no difference plus got the complete wiring harness out, cleaned it checked it and completely insulated it unfortunately again no difference. i dont see any probs with electrical because ive literaly checked everything now and found another problem when using two controls at the same time boom up and any other function bucket or arm the boom up stops operating im thinking its wrong piping somewhere. hope someone would be king enough to help me out here and possible emailing me piping diagrams that would be a much appreciated help!
I think that pump has a small 4 bolt plate on the bottom that can be rotated 180 degrees to lock the pump stroke at 8 degrees (1/3 of max. output) then unplug both pump solenoids and she will stay at that setting,that will tell you if you have electrical or hydraulic trouble also put a 6000 psi guage in pump del.test port check pr in neutral and when she stalls '. Everyone says all trouble with thees hitachi's is electrical so check it good.Hope this helps
hey thanks changed the bottom plate around and you were right the engine doesnt stall except when bottoming out a cylinder.checked pressures its 45 bar at no control and about 300 bar at load. so does this mean its electrical?? but why does it still stall at cylinder bottom? still trying to figure out why boom up and any other function stops boom up? would be a great help if i could get some piping diagrams off someone or i could also buy a traning manual if anyone selling?
Ok clear me up here , by stall do you mean that it completely dies when any cyl. is bottomed out and the pr. is 300bar when it does ?You can get books at(johndeeretechinfo.com)but look at e bay for used .
How did you adjust the angle sensor? The centre punch mark on the angle sensor shaft should be 180 degrees away from the harness. To adjust it unplug your high speed solenoids and wait for the leakage of them to make the pump go into full stroke. Then measure from the centre wire of the harness to the ground wire of the harness and adjust to 4.4 volts. "make sure your bottom plate is in the normal position".Take the angle sensor off pull the little clip that the angle sensor shaft sits in. Then take a stubby slotted screwdriver and see if you can turn the shaft. It should not move at all. What you are looking for there is to see if the feed back link has broken.FYI The LED on the PVC (Pump Valve Computer) The normal flash is about 1 second on, 1 second off. That is saying there is no active codes. Now a short flash is worth 1 and a long flash is worth 10. So you could have fault code 22. 2 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes. If you have more than one code lets say 22 and 23. Then you will have 2 long then 2 short then 2 long then 3 short then it will continue on a loop. Your best bet for fixing it is to have someone with experience on these machines help you. By this I mean an experienced EX-2 or 3 Hitachi/Deere mechanic as they are completely different from any other models. The manual can be very confusing and DrEX unless you have experience on it can give you the run around.
yes with the plate turned 180 around engine doesnt stall but when bottoming any cylinder the pressure gets to almost 300 bar when stalling begins then pressure drops! what do these machines main relief pressures run at?
didnt know how to adjust angle sensor but i realised the punch mark has to be 180 to the harness! have played around with it quite alot trying it at all positions but not solving the problem but now will do it as youve told me at 4.4 volts with plate in normal position plus will also check the feedback link and get back on that!the pvc is 1 second off than 1 second on so meaning no fault codes. unfortunately no professionals in kenya so seems im stuck with it and will have to figure it out with help from you guys which is much appreciated. i see there are adjustments on the dp sensor could that be an issue aswell? what do you think is the problem with the boom up it stalls when your using it same time with any other function? thanks
ok got angle sensor out to check the link its was fine no movement with the screw driver than adjusted the sensor to 4.4 volts but still not solved stalling problem! could the stalling be caused by the problem of boom up stopping when doing same time with any other function?
naheed,post your email ill send some info to you.
Lets go back a few steps. Is the engine dying with no black smoke? Therefore you may have a fuel problem. Check to make sure the stop motor cable is not partially pulling the fuel stop lever on the fuel pump. Or the banjo fitting going into the fuel pump that has a screen in it is clean. Sometimes on smaller machines they are on the inlet to the water separator.Check that all fuses are ok also. When you looked at the LED flashing it was the lower of the 2 computers right? Pumps at full stroke and no fault code does not make sense. (i'm assuming that). If you can have your volt meter on the angle sensor while someone runs the machine without stalling it and see if the voltage changes. This will confirm that the pump is not coming off full stroke if no voltage change.As far as your boom up stopping when another function is activated. Try something for me, if your auto idle works, temporarily activate each function after the engine idles down and see if the engine revs up. This is just checking your individual pressure sensors to see if they work. You could have a combination of problems.
thanks rgl its[email protected]
when engine dies its lots of black smoke and plus when i got the machine i thought its was engine problem so did a complete overhaul also new injector tips and pump calibration which was done twice! could calibration be wrong but im doubtful on that?yes led flashes on lower comp(pvc) but i checked with machine at idle and rest? is that ok?yes auto idle working will check it with each function tomorrow and volt meter reading of angle sensor!thanks for your help its really getting me closer to solving this problem. cheers
Ok the black smoke should be an indication of a hydraulic pull down. keeping an open mind, turbo (air intake) problems or a partially plugged muffler can also be a problem. Seen both of those. You are right about the idle and at rest as the only code you will find off the blinking LED is an active code. Now I wish you had a DREX. But we can work around it. The voltage check while someone is operating it will tell us if the pump stroke is moving. If you can feather the boom up without it killing the engine and somehow be looking at the LED to see if there is a code coming up. I'm still thinking code # 22. Abnormal pump control. i have only seen problems like this being A-sensor or High Speed Solenoids. You say you have new solenoids on. Could they be crossed up electrically? I have also seen them seize hydraulically. What happens when you unplug the DP sensor and try the machine?
This just has to be a failed DP sensor......
I agree with the DP sensor circuit. But want to confirm the signals to the pump are OK. Went back and re-read the problems. If you say that swing and travel are OK then I would be looking into the load sensing shuttle valves on the cylinder portion of the valve bank to the DP sensor. Also on the forward facing of the control valve between each hose for boom arm and bucket there is a plate with small steel lines going to it. Check to see if the allen bolts holding the plate on are tight and none are broken off.
hi kenal put volt meter to the angle sensor today while machine running and with someone operating the machine the voltage changes and rises till about 4.4 when its stalling! checked fuses they all ok but dont know amperage each is required to be?will feather boom up tomorrow and check if any fault codes appearing and get back on that.yes one of the high speed solenoids is new(china) but he old one wasnt gone its still working.if i change the wires cross, the pump goes into full stroke few seconds after start and stalls engine even with no controls being done same happens if i remove dp sensor wire! all my parts(pvc,throttle,angle,dp,pressure sensor and high speed solenoid) are china could that be any issue?
@ cutting edge yup thats what i thought put in a new one adjusted it to 0.4 volts but still same problem!
ensure you get the 4.4 volts on the black and the white wire not the white and the red. The dot on the angle sensor shaft must be facing away from the angle sensor harness side.
yes i got 4.4 volts on the angle sensor(with dot facing away from harness) and 0.4 volts on the dp sensor with the black and white wires!
Does the voltage steadily climb to 4.4 even when letting go of the functions or does it go up and down?. 4.4 will be max displacement. I have not used any Chinese parts before. Any of the 1 amp fuses should not be changed up to a higher voltage. Especially the 1 amp PVC or you will burn a resister in it if you have any sensor shorts.
@ kenal yes signals to the pump are ok the angle sensor voltage steadily changed up and goes down when letting go of function. top high speed solenoid gets about 24 volts when start and bottom gets similar as well but only when in operation.realised after setting the angle sensor the tracks and swing stalling engine now!will check the load sensing valves tomorrow.i have already checked the compensation spools on the front and all steel pipes are ok.
DP sensors came out years ago non adjustable and with a smaller top on them. Sounds like you are getting DP sensed pressure. There are 2 small plugs on the top of the other half of the valve bank that the DP sensor is on. Inside are 2 screens (going from memory a long time ago) that oil passes through to the DP sensor. Check to see if they are partially plugged. Hopefully you are not running any vegetable oil. The high speed solenoids can activate many times per second for a fraction of a second to maintain or change the pump angle especially when hot and with the High Speed Solenoids leaking internally . A steady 24v would indicate a a desire from the PVC to stroke the pump. A steady 24 V would also send fault code 22.
ok coz i have a workshop manaul and it shows to adjust the dp sensor to 0.4 volts.feathered up boom function today and still not showing any codes on led.dont know why but no codes showing on pvc led. will check the screens and get back on that.about the oil im using valvoline hydraulic no#46!
shopguy said:Mine does similar but it only pulls engine down some when you pull lever just a bit then frees up when you pull more ,just in that spot close to neutral that loads it up, like you said only on Bucket ,Boom, Arm .Hope somone will come to our rescue.Click to expand...Hey Guys I need to bring this one back to the top because i still dont have this 220-3 fixed it is useable but it just aint right or i dont think so heck at this point i just dont know.Like i said before when you pull any cylinder lever (the arm is worst) just a bit (before cylinder moves with pilot pressure about 100psi) it loads up and main pressure jumps to 5000 psi. but when you pull a bit more (pilot pressure to about 200psi) main pressure drops down to hands off pressure of 850psi and the cylinder starts to move, rest of the lever stroke works normal. it is not setting any codes, A/S is at 4.40 at max stroke,D/P is .40 engine off and 4.96 or .26 mgp. on drex running {hands off** I Locked the pump at min. stroke with shims and it did the same thing so i dont think it is pump control trouble but like i said i just dont know.ThanksThanks For Any Help
Main pressure is going down because your pilot pressure is now sufficient to open valve spools. It sounds like it is spooling up the pumps before it moves the valve spools, are you sure the pumps are not spooling up?
That is exactly what it sounds like to me too but pumps constant at 4.1 degrees when pvc controls it, 2.1degrees .71 voltes locked all way up i will lock it again and see what it does. Could or does pilot oil close unloader valve?
sorry not too have read through all the posts, but have you checked all the fuses?I had an issue like this on an EX300-3 after a day of stuffing around we found a blown 1amp fuse PUMP MTG i think was the label and it solved it, was stopping the swash plate from destroking cause it to stall out the engineI'll go back into my corner now
Dont go to your corner ,we learn from eachother. I went and ran another -3 to find that it does the same thing that mine does so i guess it is one of thoes things i will have to learn to put up with.I thought that little problem just might lead me to the loading up when hot problem but no such luck.thanks
Naheed, This is Srini from India. I have HITACHI EX120-3. I am having same problem what you encountered.But my Engine is not dying, all Hydraulics are stalled. I changed 2 High speed sensors, PVC, Angle sensor, DP sensor, Speed sensor(all from China). But still same probem. My electrician checked complete harnes, but still same problem. Hydraulic tank getting heated, slow boom movement, tracks completely stalled. Please help me since you have done enough experiments on these machines, All Hitachi Ex120-2,-3, HItachi EX200-2, -3 machines are same. Pls help me.--Srini
Hello , Could Some one help me in making HItachi EX120-3 to be manual. I got frustrated and spent lot of money on this machine.Pls Pls pls.
seadara said:Naheed, This is Srini from India. I have HITACHI EX120-3. I am having same problem what you encountered.But my Engine is not dying, all Hydraulics are stalled. I changed 2 High speed sensors, PVC, Angle sensor, DP sensor, Speed sensor(all from China). But still same probem. My electrician checked complete harnes, but still same problem. Hydraulic tank getting heated, slow boom movement, tracks completely stalled. Please help me since you have done enough experiments on these machines, All Hitachi Ex120-2,-3, HItachi EX200-2, -3 machines are same. Pls help me.--SriniClick to expand...Did you set the angle sensor, or just bolt it on?
I have read all of the threads that have anything to do with the HITACHI 200LC. I have checked fuses, computer is operating normallyOut of the 4 sensors they all tested fine. ALTHOUGH the angle sensor was a little suspect.STEP 1: I removed the sensor and checked with a small screwdriver to see if the fork on the swash plate was intact. I could rotate the fork freely which indicates that one of the arms must be broken.STEP 2: I put my multimeter in parallel on the ground and sensor return wires and adjusted angle sensor to roughly 1.45 or 1.54 Volts which is where it should sit in normal operation ** (I may not be accurate with the set voltage values because it has been several months since doing this but a guy with lots of experience had told me to set it to this so I am not making this number up) ** I then reinstalled the angle sensor.STEP 3: I got a friend to start the machine and operate it while I monitored the voltage.....WHAMMO the machine ran awesome no stalling or slow operation.THEN.. the voltage changed and the machine acted up again. **( I cant remember which did what but from what I gathered after a few tests. Either when the voltage goes above or below the value that I had originally set it causes one of these two things.ISSUE 1: the machine goes into a limp mode where the engine is at high rpm but all the hydraulic functions are slower than molasses.ORISSUE 2: the machine runs fairly normal except it will stall out when you run the hydraulics full out (two functions at the same time or fully extended or retracted)My question to anybody is. Has anybody had this problem before? What have they done to fix it? Is it possible to tear down the pump and replace the fork? Does anybody have a rebuilt pump? Is there a manual that shows step by step instructions for tearing down the pump?Or is my troubleshooting completely effedand I am so far out I should get my head checked?
My son lives in Grand Prairie!!
"My question to anybody is. Has anybody had this problem before? What have they done to fix it? Is it possible to tear down the pump and replace the fork? Does anybody have a rebuilt pump? Is there a manual that shows step by step instructions for tearing down the pump?Or is my troubleshooting completely effed and I am so far out I should get my head checked? "Yes you need not go any further until you get the pin/fork arrangement repaired. Usually it was the valve plate pin that broke off. There was an updated valve plate and fork. Try to find the broken parts.
Thanks to all who contribute to this thread, it has made my task of figuring out the problem on my EX-220-2 much easier. My problem is so much like every body else on this thread. It turns out that after reading toward the end of this thread is that I have a broken fork or pin that operates the A sensor.It also turns out that my Hitachi 220-2 technical manual is written incorrect on setting the A sensor. The manual says that you are to be sure to have the punch mark on the side of the label before placing into its position( the label is on the harness side). I called my local Deere Dealer to ask them if it was written wrong in my manual and if they would look it up in there manual on how to set it but they would not look it up. Then I found this thread on this issue and KenAl confirmed what I was suspecting, that it should be written to have the punch mark on the opposite side of the harness, or as KenAl put it 180 to the harness. The labels are on the side of the harness on the two sensors I have.Now I would ask KenAl if it is possible to remove the outer cover of the valve plate while the pump is on the machine or should I remove the pump from the machine to repair the broken pin and or fork?
The dealers had kits to do it in place. You still have to drain the oil. Taking it off and laying it on the housing so you can pull the head off straight up is the easiest. Remember to look for the broken piece. It usually was still in the case.
Before you responded I had already taken the pump out and layed it on the bench as you described. It really isn't that much work taking it out. I did find the broken piece of pin in the case. After careful inspection, the fork shows uneven wear on the inside of the forks and it also shows wear on the side next to were the step is on the pin. The pin also shows wear on the face of the first step wear the wrench flat area is. I could be wrong, but if there was more clearance between the side of the fork and pin to were it could not touch on the side, it would not have broke the pin.It seems that if you had the original pin to replace into the valve and only changed out to the new spring type lever that would be the fix. I believe that if the new style fork is used you could stay with the original pin in the original valve, but the original pin needs to be machined back another .050" so the side of the fork doesn't touch the side of the pin.Or just spend the $690.00 for the new valve with integrated pin, new lever and be sure to buy the new shaft that goes with the new lever, because the old shaft on the old lever is different and call it good. All parts, o-rings, packing, filter, shipping, to do this job is going to be about $1,000.00. Ordered all the parts thru Deere Dealer, no problem. Thanks
Has anyone fitted a manual conversion kit to their pump?
I have a 220-5 grey hitachi and it bogs the engine with any hydraulic function. Any ideas?
has anybody had any luck whith solving problems whith hitachi ex2003 stalling not destroking pump etc replaced pvc just don't seem to be able to nail the problem
Hello Wabco,I've had these very same problems with my EX200-2. I ended up having to replace the entire wiring harness on the machine as there were so many broken wires and other issues... I had a thread going about what I found and what I did that might help you out. I'm going to try to put a link in here and hopefully it will help you out.https://www.heavyequipmentforums.co...-Hitachi-EX200-2-computer-question&highlight=
thanks spitzair for reply I have had to do some other work but soon as I get aminute iam going to attack again will let you know how igo ithought my wiring might been alright as ihave checked the continuity on most of it
I checked continuity and all that good stuff too on mine... At one point when I thought I had everything fixed it worked for about a minute or two, then it quit again... Sometimes there are breaks in the wires that don't show up until it moves or a vibration wiggles it open, etc... It was a very frustrating time troubleshooting it so in the end I did what I should have done right away and replaced the wiring harness... Ever since then the machine has been perfect!Hope this helps!
about to attack excavator again trying to decide wheter to replace wiring or convert over to hyd pump control
New to this Forum but have been looking over some of the posts on here, I own 2 Hitachi Excavators a Ex100-2 and a Ex200LC-5 and a Deere 35D Mini, Guess I'm lucky I haven't had any serious issues with any of my machines, however one problem I have had which I see others posting that their machine would run fine but die out when you go to move, I'm sure many of you may know this but for those that dont, On the Isuzu engine the line going into the fuel filter, if you back out the Banjo bolt, be careful not to lose the washers, there is a plastic screen that screws into the bolt itself. if that gets plugged up it can cause all sorts of interesting things to happen with the machine. the most common is the machine will start up run fine, Rev up but as soon as you go to crawl, swing, dig it will stall right out or sometimes it will slowly fade like your running out of fuel. Hope this helps some.
Has any one converted the electronics to the hydraulic control. I see the Chinese ones for sale, and am tempted to skip all this electronic craziness.. Seems if you pick the wrong sensor to replace, you've almost bought the conversion kit. Then you have to pray that the rest of the system is intact..Would be very interested to know how it worked.
Hitachi excavatoeBradyHill1 said:the computer on My ex200-2 went out, or some of the computer went out, I have voltage at the pump but Deere said it would cost 10k to fix it so we just bypassed the computer, it burns more fuel but is still working....Click to expand...How did u bypass the computer I waunt to do the same thing
I am working on a Hitachi EX200 LC-2, the engine stalls or dies if function is held. I have read through tons of articles looking for the answer..Right now I have correct voltage going to my DP Sensor, but when doing the DP Sensor Voltage test the lowest I can adjust t is 0.8v, (I have the old type sensor with the jam nut and Allen adjust screw) the book says it should be (0.4 +0.15 -0.1v) but sometimes the machine runs fine when you unplug one of the Pump Displacement Solenoid Valves, so I OHM tested both of them and came up with 16.8 - 17.1 ohms of resistance the book says (15.5v +- 1.0v). After all that I tested the Angle Sensor, removed it checked everything and the lowest I can adjust it is 4.87v the book says normal range is (4.40v +- 0.03v).So with all that I think I have two bad Pump Displacement Solenoid Valves, a bad Angle Sensor, and possibly a bad DP Sensor.Where do I go from here? I don't really think all 4 items are bad but I guess it's possible.
hey mears ihave hadno luck in fixing my excavator i could write 3 books on it i dont feel that bad though hitachi have looked at it a couple of times and no good we have replaced wiring computers all sensors some tweice auto trottle doesnt work stalls but ours is the same angle sensor lowest is 4.8 which isnt write i am wondering if it could be fork inside pump even though it feels alright whith a screw driver in the side we have had to walk for awhile but keen for another crack when i get some time or inspiraiton or find some one that knows what their talking about keen to hear any solutions wabco
I talked to a guy today about possible issues wth the main fuel inlet line having a screen on it that gets clogged up. Maybe check that on yours. I checked this one and no such luck.
:notworthy
That 4.4 volts is on the middle wire of the A/S with the pump at full stroke .Sounds like you are in the power wire with 4.8hope this helps
Thank you for the help, I have double checked myself time and time again on the correct output voltage wire. Most all Hitachi's that I have ever worked on the output voltage is in the middle if it is a 3 prong plug/harness. Thank you though.
Did you check the vo;tage at the harness with the a/s unplugged using the ground wire in the harness ?
Yes, I have tried that and a continuity test. I also pin tested the wires at the computer end. I think I will try another Angle Sensor local instead of from China.
hi guys, im planning to do convertion for this machine. ex200-3, is any one here tried this thing? any responce will be much appreciatedHYDRO-TECH
i have an old hitachi UHO83LC , had a fuel problem drained fuel changed filter.the machine ran fine pressure washed and cleaned on it for 3 days , went to crank to move and when you crank it make a horrible noise ,blow black smoke and die , did this a few times , throttled it up , it cranked and ran with smoke but not as bad , i thought mabe it would smooth out , let it run 15 minutes it never smoothed out , i idled it down and it died , somehow it is staying under a load , i dont see pd sensors because i dont see any wires . i drained pump transmission , no water , oil looked fine very little sediment pulled oil pan plug , no water in oil pan, turbo spins need help!
Welcome to HEF helpless! Since your issue is not related to the 200 thread you piggybacked on you should start your own thread rather than piggybacking off another. You will get a much faster response that way.